Wednesday, September 16, 2015

A Monkey and Her Backpack: a year in review (Part 2)

KOH PHANGAN
on the ferry to Koh Phangan
I arrived into Koh Phangan the end of September and I honestly didn't think I would be staying very long.  As fate would have it, I absolutely fell in love with the island and the opportunities that arose were ones I'd always wanted to explore: teaching contact improvisation, mediation, spirituality, diving, and so much more.  I felt the desire to immerse myself in this place and really explore the possibilities the island had to offer.  It was 7 months before I decided to leave the island and continue my travels.

In order to stay on the island, I of course needed some kind of income.  I didn't have much and I didn't need much; a roof over my head and food in my belly was sufficient.


who says you can't do CI at dinner??
The thing that inspired me to stay on the island was the ability to teach contact improvisation.  I ended up teaching an impromptu class when I met with Tatiana, the mutual friend of a friend.  The class loved what I'd done and asked if I could do more.  Tatiana was wonderful enough to let me stay in her place while I figured myself out on where I could teach and a job so I could live on the island.  I ended up teaching at two different locations as time allowed.  It's funny though, my first class was a disaster...no one came!!  I was frustrated but not discouraged and just took it as a learning experience.  Word spread and I had some lovely classes and jams while on the island.
my first poster I made as PR
working the bar on St. Patrick's Day

I ended up finding two very different job opportunities through two very different means.  I first found a bartending gig through a conversation Tatianta had with the owner of a resort while standing in line at the immigration office.  The only catch was I wasn't needed until the high season which started in the middle of December.  This was when I found the position of PR staff at a tantra/yoga school.  My job quickly became events manager and I took over bringing in and marketing new workshops and events at the school.  It was a rewarding and yet stressful job in major part because I was living at the school while I worked there.  As many of you know, I tend to take my work home with me as it is, so this was an even more difficult task.  I learned about many new types of meditation and healing and also about the lights and shadows of the spiritual community.  Unfortunately due to personality clashes, I cut my time at the school short and focused on self care and diving, a decision I don't regret.

Working at Seaflower Bungalows at their bar called Heaven (come on, who wouldn't love to say they get to work in Heaven every night?) located right on the beach, it was a relaxing and social job.  I met people from all over the world and perfected my caprinhia cocktail.  ::chuckle::  With beautiful beach sunsets every night and the occasional seafood BBQ, this was a dream job.  Like any bartending gig, the hours were crazy but I met so many people and built so many lasting relationships that staying up till 4am was well worth it.  I love my Seaflower family!!!


my first scooter!!
While on the island, I didn't just learn new things while on the job.  I also learned how to drive a scooter!!!  Cars aren't very popular in Thailand other than to transport goods and this is true even more so on the islands.  So Kira had to get on one of the back of these and eventually learn to drive so I wouldn't have to bum rides.  When I decided to stay on Koh Phangan for a while, I actually bought a scooter and then sold it at face value when I left again.  This is a pretty typical course of action for farangs staying long-term.
jellyfish sting my first day  :-(


motorbike accident and still smiling
Now an adventure wouldn't be an adventure without some physical mishaps on my part.  I tried to keep things on the down low until I'd recovered so as not to freak out the parents.  Shhhhh!!!  But they know I'd tell them if anything major was going on (right Mom and Dad??).  Anyway, true to form I was stung by a jellyfish my first day on Koh Phangan about 10 minutes after getting into the water for the first time.  Of course no one knew had to actually handle stings (including the locals running the front desk of my hostel) so I just waited it out and listened to music to distract from the pain.  NO, people!  I did NOT let anyone pee on me.  ::chuckle::  The air con at the 7/11 became my best friend and I actually went out dancing that night at the jungle party.  The jellyfish stings made for some pretty cool designs as it healed too.

Next was the UTI from hell which you can read in my other post Always an Adventure.  I then got in a motorbike accident a few weeks after buying my bike in late October.  Luckily it was just me involved but it was still a scary situation.  My brakes froze going down a steep hill that had a sharp turn and lots of gravel around a hole where construction had been happening earlier in the month.  Basically all the cards were stacked against me.  I was going down; it was just a question of when.  I had never been so grateful to contact improv with learning to fall correctly as I naturally protected my head and expanded my surface area when the bike finally tipped.  I had a lot more scratches but not nearly as deep if I'd had a small point of impact.  The worst was my side where the gravel shredded my skin.  I have a nice Koh Phangan tattoo now to show off when I wear my bikini.  ::chuckle::


birthday celebration at the Chocolate House
the closest I could get to a turkey on Thanksgiving
New Year's Eve buffet YUM!!!
Being abroad also meant celebrating the holidays island/Thai style.  I think the hardest part was not being around my friends and family during these different moments.  I made some wonderful friends but there is something to be said about family traditions at Christmas and a night on the town with my gals on New Year's Eve.

I also celebrated local festivals such as Loy Krathong, Songkran, the Colormoon Festival, and of course the infamous Full Moon Party.  You can read about my crazy experience in the bodypainting competition at the Colormoon festival HERE.

Many people confused Loy Krathong with the light festival which occurs in Chaing Mai around the same time.  This festival is also known as the floating lights festival, giving thanks to the ocean which provides so many gifts to the island.  We each light lanterns made from wood or coconut shells, decorated with banana leaves, flowers, and incense, and release them into the water.  You are supposed to leave a little of yourself with the lantern as part of the gift (a bit of hair, a fingernail).  With the intention to let go of the past and make a wish for the future, you set out the lantern in the present.  It was a beautiful experience both in having my own lantern and sharing this festival with locals and travelers alike.

Songkran is the Thai New Year and is celebrated with water... a lot of water.  I don't have many pictures from it.  In fact my camera had an unfortunate incident in which my dry bag sprung a leak.  ::sad face::  It still works but I can't use the display anymore.  Anyway, the water is meant to symbolize washing away the past year and starting fresh.  In present day, it has become an opportunity to use water guns, buckets, and hoses to soak those around you.  It doesn't matter if you're on a scooter or just walking down the street; NO ONE is safe!  ::laughs::  Locals will also mix water with a colored corn starch base and swipe on your face as a kind of blessing.  It was a great time even with the rain (the universe's joke on a day of water games).
my lantern for Loy Krathong
3rd Full Moon party
my first Full Moon party




body painting competition at the Colormoon Festival
Diving was something I've wanted to do for many years but despite my many wanderings, I've never lived near large bodies of water.  ::chuckle::  So living on a tropical island and near the top dive site in the Gulf of Thailand, I could finally take the plunge.  ::grin::  I went to Koh Tao for a week to get my Open Water certifcation.  It's known as the island to go if you want to dive and this monkey is always up for an extra adventure.  As recommended by a friend, I trained with French Kiss Divers.  I also want to send out a massive THANK YOU again to all of you who helped make this experience possible.  It was one of the most surreal, soul-inspiring experiences of my life.  To be underwater with a feeling of weightlessness, surrounded by brightly colored fish and coral, and the peaceful silence of only your breath in your ear....it was a practice in meditation I plan on doing as much as possible for as long as my body allows.  The dive shop was excellent and I highly recommend it to anyone looking to learn to dive while on Koh Tao.  Will, Oz, and the rest of the gang made my stay truly special and I was sad to say goodbye, but my new bartending job was calling.
my group with French Kiss Divers
Photo courtesy of Ian Hamilton Photography

Back on Koh Phangan, I started diving with Haad Yao Divers.  I discovered micro diving; nudibranchs and shrimp get me about excited as a giant school of barracuda!!  My fellow divers just sometimes just shake their heads with a grin.   I eventually was also able to get up to my Rescue Diver certificate when money and time allowed.  The more I have been in the water and shared the experience with friends, I've realized I want to do this professionally and slowly (much slower than I'd like!) I am working towards owning all of my own equipment and getting the training I need to work in a dive shop.  Even a bad day of diving is better than a great day in the office.  ::grin::






I had many other adventures during my time on Koh Phangan.  A group of us climb to Khao Ra, the highest point on the island.  A 3 hour hike through a jungle and probably the most interesting aspect was wearing shoes for the first time in 4 months.  I had blisters for weeks!!  I also introduced locals and travelers alike to jello shots (or jelly shots as Europeans call them).  It's rather funny to share these during my travels and see each person's expression.  ::chuckle::
JELLO (JELLY) SHOTS!!!!

Fire show on Sairee Beach, Koh Tao

Khao Ra, the highest point on Koh Phangan

While on Koh Phangan, I also had to do 2 visa runs to Penang and 2 visa extensions on Koh Samui.  You can read about my first adventure to Penang HERE My second time was eventful in a different kind of way.  By a random series of events, I missed getting to the visa office on the first day by 2 minutes and so had to stay almost a week instead of the planned 3 days.  On the bright side, it gave me an opportunity to explore Georgetown a bit more.  I also met some wonderful locals who took me for a few nights on the town.  Let me know if you want more details on those crazy nights.  ::wink::

Trying to figure out where we are.   Penang, Malaysia


Penang, Malaysia
Penang, Malaysia
Unfortunately my time on Koh Phangan drew to a close in April as the high season ended.  I had found a new love of diving and wanted to pursue it further.  I was also ready to move on and experience more of what the world had to offer.  It was a hard decision as I'd made many dear friends on the island.  My final night was a celebration of getting my rescue diver certificate, another diver getting his DM, and my goodbye to the island.  There were a lot of drinks, seafood to put in the belly, and even some slightly drunken tap dancing (I still need to put up the video).  ;-)  And as tradition of the island, I lit my first and last paper lantern.  And in typical Kira-fashion, I also broke tradition by having all the friends around me help to send it off.
my "goodbye lantern"
And so my stay on Koh Phangan ended.  I was off to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia to figure out my next move.  The world was once again my oyster and Monkey was hungry!!  Stay tuned for Part 3 to catch up on the remainder of my first year abroad.

**Please Note: All Photos are Property of Kira Zebroski**
unless credited otherwise

Tuesday, September 15, 2015

A Monkey and Her Backpack: a year in review (Part 1)

It's hard to believe I left the United States 1 year ago. And 13 months ago I left my home for the great unknown. I've met so many new people, experienced so much, and continue to be in awe of this adventure I call my life. I wanted to do a review of my travels so far as much of my blog as holes in it. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did experiencing it.

On August 15th 2014, I left Rochester, NY with the boxes containing all that remained of my belongings, my Burning Man bag, and my backpack that would be traveling with me for the foreseeable future.  It was terrifying, thrilling, and daring.  I was literally leaving everything I knew behind to discover answers to questions I didn’t even realize I wanted to ask.  


bonfire at my going away party

I stopped for a night in Ohio with my good friend Grafton and we danced the night away. In Wisconsin, I spent my few remaining days with my parents, nephews, and one of my brothers, not knowing when next we'd see each other. I also made it in time for my high school friend's wedding, fulfilling a promise I'd made one year ago.


friends for more than a decade!!

From there, I traveled to Reno for Burning Man. How could I miss the chance to go Home one last time (until I come back for a visit of course!)? This burn was filled with as many hellos as it was with goodbyes. I expanded my family, fell in love, and learned to release from my Martha-Monkey tendencies and be present in the moment.


night the Man burned
this is why they call me Dome Monkey

Next stop was San Francisco and staying with two fantastic friends, Poppy and Maurice.  I couldn't have spent my decompression days and getting ready for Thailand with two better people.  Playing music under a bridge, sake tastings, beaches and kayaking with porpoises, seeing the Golden Gate bridge at night, quarter machines, and good beer.  Thank you for giving me crash space and such loving company.  I love you two!!!  Lovelovelovelovelove!!!!

Golden Gate bridge
the Trio!!!

brief detour to OR


my last sunset in the US
I flew into Bangkok on September 16th with no clear idea of where I was headed.  I spent a few days just taking it all in.  I ate food so spicy I cried, but so tasty I couldn't stop until I'd finished it.  I ate bugs, drank my first bucket (and then maybe a few more), and experienced a pingpong show.  ::shakes head with a smile::  Those were some talents I didn't even know existed.
our very first bucket (gone in about 10 seconds)
I couldn't bringing a tent and sleeping bag with me all the way to Thailand and not go camping.  Therefore, Khao Yai National Park and I had a date together.  It involved a lot of walking and the occasional waterfall when I wandered far enough.  My first time in an open jungle and I certainly had a few different moments when I wondered just what the hell I'd been thinking camping where there were free roaming elephants, boars, crocodiles, monkeys, and the occasional tiger.  And here I though my biggest fear was going to be leeches.  ::chuckle::

taking in the scenery
my first wild elephant!!  I saw him on a night safari















Continuing up the Northeastern portion of Thailand (also called Isaan), I made it to Phimai, a small little town boasting an ancient Angkor temple Prasat Hin and Sai Ngam, Thailand's oldest and largest banyan tree.  I was fascinated by how so many of the doorways lined up at Prasat Hin and this was my first experience with the ancient temples I'd only read about in books.  Sai Ngam was a quiet place (I had it all to myself as I wandered) except for the evil geese who chased me up a path.  ::grin::  My inner monkey wanted to swing among the natural walkways on the top level but I could sense the peace and sacredness of this place.

Sai Ngam
Sai Ngam, outer view
Phimai Historical Park










Next stop was Surin although I was given a bit of a surprise when the hotel listed in my backpacker's guide had closed.  ::chuckle::  I still managed to find a decent crash space.  Note to the wise, they will often charge an extra 50b to have a tv in your room.  Who honestly needs it when there's things like Prasat Hin Phanom Rung to see?  Another Angkor temple, but this one rivaled Phimai in size alone.  The walkway up the temple was perhaps the best part; it represented the bridge from the mortal realm up to the spiritual realm.
walkway to the heavens
  















During this time, I was searching on helpx.com for a volunteer opportunity to stay in Isaan; however, I wasn't having much luck.  I liked Northeastern Thailand as it wasn't a particularly popular backpacker's area and oftentimes I was the only farang around.  I had women call up their daughters for the sole reason being so I could talk to them in English.  My first train ride ended in my entire car waving and taking pictures of me as I exited the train.  I liked being off the beaten track but it didn't seem like it was meant to be.

I recieved an invitation from a friend of a friend to visit her down south if I ended up that way.  I had made tentative plans with some friends I'd made in Bangkok to meet up in Southern Thailand so I decided to head down a little early and meet this mutual friend.  Who knew it'd have such a lasting impact?

Wat Pho, housing the Reclining Buddha
Wat Pra Kaew, housing the Emerald Buddha



First I had to head back down through Bangkok and stopped at Wat Pho, a collection of Buddhist temples housing the largest reclining Buddha and also the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand.  It also contains Wat Pra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha.  There was a Buddhist ceremony going on while I was there and I sat for some time just letting the chanting wash over me.  It felt inappropriate to take a picture with the monks and so I just took a photo to remind me of that moment.

From there, I took first overnight train down to Surat Thani and a ferry to the island of Koh Phangan.  Check out my time there on "A year in review Part 2."

**PLEASE NOTE ALL PHOTOS ARE PROPERTY OF KIRA ZEBROSKI**
OR CREDITED TO OWNER